Vol.37 It's the climax

July 15, 2021

The rainy season is now gradually coming to an end in Japan.

The dreaded rainy season ended in the blink of an eye.

From here on, it's scorching hot hell on the bike.

Everyone please be careful not to get heatstroke.

This year, we have been busy with the Olympics, so we are working hard to create samples.

The pattern maker is not showing his true potential, so I'm quite worried about whether it will go through.

So this time I'd like to write about things related to the denim jackets I always make.

With the recent vintage boom, prices of Levi's have been skyrocketing, but I used to hunt for them a lot when I was younger, so I can buy them at cheaper prices than I do now.

We have a kind of blueprint called a thread instruction sheet that we send to the factory, but for a normal riders jacket, the thread instructions are simply something like "matching the outer fabric color, #20 (thread number), number of stitches, polyester filament" to match the leather.

However, denim is so complicated that it has to be drawn out on an unfolded diagram.

Why is denim so complicated?

First, you can choose between cotton and polyester thread depending on the era you want to make it.

If strength is required, core yarn (polyester yarn wrapped with cotton) can be used.

In some cases, the upper thread is core and the lower thread is poly.

The combination is decided based on experience and predictions about what state we want the finished product to be in after processing, and what it will look like after 10 years of wear.

I've blurred it because it's a trade secret, but the general idea is something like this.

Basically, it specifies all the threads.

I don't think a normal factory would do this.

I needed vintage denim to create these instructions, so I went on a shopping spree.

If I'm going to buy things, I want them to be something I can wear, so they're all in my size.

When adding processing, realistic processing does not come about solely through the skill of the craftsman.

It depends on how far you want to go, but if you are pursuing a vintage feel, you need to know everything about vintage items to create something that satisfies you.

So, I'm just about to write the thread instructions, so I'll post some pictures of the vintage threads and their specifications.

First, the 1st (506XX)

Originally, the name XX was chosen to denote a sturdy fabric, the thickest available with the technology available at the time.

This is well known, but the back of the flap is made of thin denim of about 6oz.

It looks like it's been thinned to reduce the thickness.

I've always wondered, why did they insist on making it thin even though they could roll the kama bottom?

I wonder if it wouldn't have fit if I used a straight sewing machine?

Rivets are used at the opening of the patch pocket.

It must be a remnant of the S506XX.

By the way, these days I finish the opening with a triple fold, but the 557XX is left raw.

The age can be determined by the cinch back, but the age can also be determined by the rivets.

This is the earlier 506XX

This is what is used later.

Can you see the difference?

The stamps on the early period are closer to the inside and the letters are small, but the stamps on the later period are larger.

The larger letters are also used for 507XX.

If the cinch back is broken you can tell the age by looking here.

By the way, the cinch back of the previous model looks like this.

Items with two needles are from the early period.

We can't make them now because we have to think about the consumer and hedge our risks.

There are similar items, but the basic needles cannot be used.

Look at the sewing specifications.

This is the biggest difference between the sewing specifications of 506XX and 507XX.

The 506XX does not use a trumpet to attach the cuffs.

It's more like attaching shirt cuffs.

So the chain st is not running.

On the other hand, the 507XX uses a trumpet.

Since it is made of a trumpet, the back is made of a chain.

A trumpet is an attachment that is attached to a sewing machine, and roughly speaking it is a time-saving device when sewing.

If you're interested, please Google it.

Just looking at this, you can see the shift in the times from tailoring to mass production.

Looking at the threads used on the front, you can see that a variety of thread counts have been used, but what's interesting is the back.

It consists of a chain of basic wrap stitches.

This is thought to be for strength against tension.

However, if part of the chain breaks, the thread will fray in one direction from that point.

Since it was used as workwear in the past, I think this was a simple measure that prioritized sewing efficiency over durability.

Using a trumpet stitch is much more efficient and saves time than sewing everything with folded hem.

If you undo the rolled stitching you will see that the seam allowances are also cut very roughly.

I'm not sure why this is, but sometimes the colors of the upper thread and bobbin thread are slightly different.

This is the back of a two-piece sleeve, but can you see that the top and bottom are different colors?

The top is orange and the bottom is yellow.

I think it's a hassle to change the color just by doing that, but I often see colors changed like this.

This is not limited to the 506XX, but continues into the 557XX era.

The 506XX was released around the late 1930s, and the 557XX in the 1960s.

It has been sewn in the same way for about 30 years.

. . . This is getting quite long, so I'll write about 507XX and 557XX next time.

As a craftsman, I feel a greater attachment to pieces that are made over a long period of time, with detailed instructions even down to the thread used.

Although more than 70% of it is for my own satisfaction, I will do my best to create a product that can be talked about in many ways.

On a different note, we have some new Ezo bear wallets in stock today, so please come by the store and feel free to touch them.

I'm not sure whether to put it on the online shop.

See you later!

NORI

Back to blog

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