Vol.30.2 Everyday cutting scenes

May 23, 2021

I didn't update my blog last week, so this is my second blog update this week.

As the planning for 22 S/S was coming together, I started going to airports and knitters before the rainy season, but I ended up getting a lot of orders at the first opportunity.

Please be careful on the North Kanto Expressway on holidays.

Afterwards, I went back to the office to cut the special orders.

I think you see leather cutting from time to time, but I don't think you see fur cutting very often.

As we all know, fur has hair attached to it, so it cannot be cut from the hairy surface.

This time, we are cutting "bear jump" using Tsukiwari bear caught in Aomori and Ezo bear caught in Hokkaido.

Unlike the Emishi bear, the Tsukiwari has a black color.

Cut from the back side, checking the area to avoid cutting any areas with thin fur.

Trace the pattern with a silver pen before.

We would never cut the leather because it would be a waste of time, but we will take our time here so as not to cut the fur.

Once you've finished copying, use a new blade to cut just the leather part.

A new blade is so sharp that you can cut without applying too much force.

Work carefully and quickly, being careful not to let the blade reach the mat below.

And we cut it so that there is no waste.

The leftover leather after cutting is called "ochi" and it is best kept rather than thrown away.

To use everything as much as possible.

The leather will be cut later, so the cut-off hair should be thoroughly removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Then it's a difficult decision.

It wouldn't be that difficult with regular leather, but the edges of our game leather (especially bear leather) are three-dimensional.

It would take too long to explain why it is three-dimensional, so I'll save that for another time.

While looking at the parts, be careful not to waste leather.

We try to get both sides from the same specimen so that there is as little variation in color as possible.

I want the grain to be symmetrical on both sides, so I'll take my time to carefully consider it.

Once you know where to get it, the decision is quick.

After cutting the fur, the blade is broken off when it becomes damaged by oil, and a new blade is used.

This time too, the leather is well-oiled and of good quality.

Good full-vegetable leather has a shiny cross-section.

Just by looking at it, you can tell at a glance whether the leather is good or bad.

The blade will penetrate easily without any resistance, especially when the leather is well oiled.

There are about 40 parts in total, and it usually takes about two hours to finish cutting one piece.

If I don't think about it, it can be done in about an hour, but if I take into account the parts that need to stretch and the parts I don't want to stretch when cutting, it takes about twice as long.

If the leather is cowhide that has been thoroughly stretched with chrome, you may be able to cut it in about 30 minutes without any effort.

That's how difficult it is to cut full veggie bear jumpsuits.

After cutting, I lined them up.

This may also be a sight you don't see very often.

We never line things up like this.

I will upload the video to YouTube, so please take a look.

So this time the blog was focused on cutting.

Next time I'll write about sewing.

See you later!

NORI

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