Vol.42 緊急事態宣言終わりましたね
季節の変わり目の雨も降り始め、本格的に秋から冬になろうとしていますね。
緊急事態宣言も全面解除され、年末にかけて飲みに行く回数も増えていきそうな気が、、
気候が良いので、そろそろ紅葉ツーリングでもしたいな。
先日友人のkenkenから”屋形船でLIVEやるから見にきてと”、最近旅行にも外食にも行けてなかったので、嫁さんと参戦してきました。
屋形船乗るのも初めてだし、江戸前の天ぷらも美味かったし、LIVEも最高だったしで本当にいい夜になりました。
ようやく日常が戻ってきたな〜と実感しております。
レインボーブリッジ&カモメ
革が着れる気候になってきたので、ここにきてオーダーも増えてきています。
先々週に引き続き、先週もスペシャルオーダー縫っていました。
今回は稀に見る難しさだったかなと。。
革自体も1.8mm〜2mmの蝦夷熊革で、ディティールもてんこ盛りです。
Dポケをちゃんと使える仕様にする為に、マチを含めて立体的にファスナーを付けたり、ルイスのBRONXタイプのフロントファスナーだったり、左袖のファスナーポケットだったり。
襟の返り部分の立体感から厚みを理解してもらえると思います。
ディティールも大変だったんですが、気温が下がってきて革自体が硬くなっていたのも大変でしたね。
布帛とかと違い、縫い代を倒す時にアイロンは使えないのでハンマーを使います。
その時に鉄の馬を使うんですが、立体的過ぎてなかなか位置が定まらないんです、、
これは縫っている人しかわからない苦労かと思います。。
ハンマーもそうですが、縫製する時にミシンのアームを行ったり来たりする、"振り回し"も大変でしたね。
今回は革が黒なので、ミシンオイルの心配とかは無かったんですが、鋭利な部分に銀面が擦れて傷付かないようにしたりとかも。
襟先出すだけでも手首負傷するくらいでしたね。
これだけ苦労して仕上がった蝦夷熊ライダースは本当にかっこいい仕上がりになりました。
ビンテージの鹿革のジャケットとかで古い物であれば1930年代の物とかありますよね。
あれからしたら平気で100年は着れそうな感じです。
孫、ひ孫の代まで着て貰えたら、この蝦夷熊4頭と僕も本望です。
もちろん糸の劣化、裏地の劣化などあると思うので、僕が現役を辞める時までは修理しにきてください。
この後に立続けに蝦夷鹿を作成しました。
蝦夷熊の後の蝦夷鹿。
蝦夷鹿って素直でいい革だなって思い知らされました。
皮の良し悪しではなく、縫いやすさの話ですがw
それでも今回縫った革は1.6〜1.8mmはありました。
スムースだけど個体によってはシボが立っていて、本当に野生を感じる革の仕上がりです。
スペシャルオーダーをして頂いている方は8割がたLサイズ以上のオーダーなんですが、今回の方はSサイズで”自分の体に完全にフィットさせたい”って方でした。
難点はそこくらいでしたね。
仕上がりまでに2回袖をひっくり返さないといけないんですが、僕の腕が入らない。。
想定外でした、、
蝦夷鹿はもともとが柔らかく、思いっきり引っ張ると結構伸びたりもします。
蝦夷熊で指先と腕をやられていたので、微妙な力加減が難しかったですね。
素直と言えば素直な革なんです。
一回伸ばしてしまうと元には戻らないので、そこは慎重に加減して引っ張りながら完成させました。
後身はしっかりと蝦夷鹿の背中を使って裁断しています。
真ん中のシワみたいに見えているのが背黒と言って、蝦夷鹿の背骨 部分の色が濃くなります。
一般的にメゾンとかでは背黒を嫌がって使わないブランドが多いのですが、SEVESKIGではなるべく全て使って、捨てる所が無い様にしています。
オーダーしてくれた方のサイズ感にバッチリだった様で、家宝にしてくれると言っていました。
そうやって洋服を無駄にせず命をちゃんと着てくれたら嬉しいです。
以前初めて蝦夷熊のクマジャンをオーダーしてくれた方が、頭をフードにしたいと言って、再来店してくださりました。
仮留めして何回かかぶってもらい、一番いいポジションに調整していきます。
写真を撮らせてもらってんですが、リアル”ジコ坊”。
この方は北海道に土地も所有していて、北海道に行く時にかぶって飛行機に乗るって言っていました。
猟友会に撃たれない事を切に願います。
大体蝦夷熊を買う際に爪付きの物を購入するのですが、爪でアクセサリーを作って欲しいと言われたので、目下製作中です。
仕上がりが楽しみですね。
今回はこの辺で。
それではまた。
NORI
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