Vol.38 続デニム事
色々直前まで問題ばかりのオリンピックも開幕し、東京は若干オリンピックムードになってきました。
アトリエが国立競技場に近いので、ブルーインパルスもきれいに見えました。
しかし交通規制結構きついですね。。
普段高速使っている車が下界に降りてくるので、主要な道路は混みまくるし、オリンピックスタジアムを見に来る地方ナンバーの方々の挙動がおかしいしで、渋谷区、港区、千代田区界隈はやばい事になってました。。
皆様せめてウインカーは出す様にしましょう。
というわけで、前回から引き続きデニムの事など書いていきます。
取り立てて変な箇所は無い様に見えるんですが、パッチポケットを止めているカン止めSTに注目すると、裏は黒の#30綿糸を使用しています。
ですが、表はオレンジの#20の様に見えます。
先週も書きましたが、こういった感じで表と裏で使用する糸が代わっています。
現代では加工する事が当たり前になっていて、加工前提で縫製糸の指示書も書きます。
多くパッカリングを入れたい場所は運針数を少なくして、綿糸を表裏に使用します。
場所によっては裏糸を細くし、表糸を太くしたり。
これは意図的に行うし現代のデニムではあり得る事なんですが、70年も前のデニムでこういった仕様になっているのは違和感がありますね。
考えられるとしたら、LEVI'S以外の物も同じ生産ラインに掛けていて、下糸は変えるのが面倒って感じで黒のままになったのか。
何かの本で読んだのですが、自社工場だけでなく多数の提携工場を使っていたそうなので、その影響もあるんでしょうか？
とにかく生産効率だけを考えた糸仕様なのかなと思われます。
写真で分かるかどうかわかりませんが、基本表に出る飾りSTはオレンジを基調としています。
ただ、裏はほぼイエローです。
これも現代だと当たり前でよく知られた事なのですが、ヨーク部分の地の目（生地の方向）が逆になっています。
メインの身頃は正地の目ですが、ヨークは逆。
運動効率を考えればバイヤスで取った方が良いのでは？と思います。
加工前提だと正地の目で取ると表情がのっぺりしてしまうので、所々の地の目を逆にしたりします。
多分ですが、後ろヨークが結構大きめなので、逆地の目にし、生地用尺を稼いだのではないかなと。
それに伴って前ヨークも逆地の目にしたんでしょうか。
生地用尺を稼ぐといった点では、前端裏のセルビッジ使いにもそれを見て取れます。
現代ではセルビッジ凄いみたいになっていますが、これは生地のミミです。
力織機で織っている生地なので、ミミまでしっかり使う事が出来るのですが、通常ミミの部分は強度が弱く滑脱する可能性があるので使用されません。
110cm幅（狭幅）の生地でもミミの部分をはじいた幅を有効用尺と言います。
あとは縫製工程を少しでも少なくすると言った面でも、耳を使うのは賢い選択だと思います。
通常であれば三つ折り始末、またはロック始末+二つ折りです。
耳を使うと二つ折りのみで生地始末が可能だし、ストレートミシンで済んでしまうのでかなりの時短になりますね。
ALL折伏せのシャツとかと比べると、ミシン&ラッパを持っていればかなり楽な縫製なんじゃないかな。。
小物だけ作っていれば途中アイロンとかも入りませんし。
あんまり言うと工場さんに怒られそうですがw
557XXの写真も少しだけ載せておきます。
これは506XX、507XXにも共通しているのですが、Wステッチで鋭角に角度が付いている場所に”ワタリ”と言うステッチが走っています。
LEVI'Sのアーキュエイトステッチの中心に見られる糸飛びみたいなところです。
これもコバST（3mm）+6mm〜7mmを一本ずつ走らせると時間がかかるので、二本針用のミシンを使用しています。
鋭角な角部分は一度送りをあげるので、内側にワタリSTが出てしまいます。
最近では出なくなる様にも出来るみたいですが、デニムを縫う時はワタリが有った方が雰囲気いいですよね。
見え方で506XX、507XXと異なる部分はタックボタンがカッパー色になったところでしょうか？
なんでカッパーにしたのかは謎ですが、、
緑青出るし他に移染するし、まだ鉄の方が良かった気がします。
高校の頃70505が1万円以下で買えていたのですが、カッパー色が嫌いで買わなかった記憶があります。
大幅に変更されたのはシルエットでしょうね。
557XXはウエストのシェイプを出すために身頃を9パネルで分割しています。
50年代の ”乱暴者”とか”理由なき反抗”などでデニム+白Tがファッション化し、そこからマス化、作業着からファッションになった記念すべき一着ですね。
昔は嫌いだったししゃも袖ですが、気分的今はなんの違和感も無く着れます。
時代ですね。
前回から引き続きジャケットばかりを見てきましたが、今度デニムを取り上げるときはパンツの事についても書いてみたいと思います。
それではまた。
NORI
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