Vol.33 embroidery; Yokosuki

It's been feeling like the rainy season is finally coming to an end, but it's finally here starting next week.

Amatatu said that the rainy season actually started in early June, and this year it will end around July 15th.

I hope that will be the case.

The moon ring I started working on last week was finished yesterday.

I was taking a video of the sewing, but I forgot to take pictures of the finished product, so I will upload those next week.

This time we'll be talking about embroidery, which appears in collections almost every season.

There are three main types of embroidery:

①Machine embroidery

This is a common embroidery method that everyone has seen.

You create a punch card and the embroidery machine automatically embroiders it.

It can be embroidered using a variety of techniques and saves time, so it is widely used by a variety of brands.

At Seveskig, we also use it when doing Sagara embroidery, full-surface fabric embroidery, and special embroidery.

This is machine embroidered sagara chain embroidery.

In the case of sagara chain, handle embroidery is also available, but the factory we use only has one machine, so when mass-producing, it has to be machine embroidered.

This is an application of machine embroidery, combining three-dimensional embroidery and tatami embroidery.

It's fun to go to an embroidery factory and combine different embroidery styles.

Also, since there is almost no labor cost involved, it is relatively inexpensive, but the cost of punching is high.

If you make a large quantity, it feels like a good deal.

②Hand embroidery

It is the oldest technique in embroidery and can be done by anyone with a needle and thread.

This is a technique that seveskig also adopted in the past, but at the time there were no factories that were willing to hand embroider mass-produced items, so we went to Vietnam to mass-produce them.

Japan also has an amazing level of technology, but the number of craftsmen is decreasing, so the large flags for the Gion Festival, kimonos, and Korean traditional dresses are all embroidered in Vietnam.

This time I had it hand embroidered with reflective thread.

This is a different part number.

The Viet Jeans, brought in by the US military in the past, are famous.

It's a dream to have something embroidered on the spot.

Since there is no need to use a kanreisha (a core-like thing that is placed on the back of fabric to prevent it from wrinkling), the finished embroidery is fluffy and is not affected by the fabric.

Vietnamese hand embroidery is simply amazing.

It's so beautiful that you might mistake it for a painting.

The embroidery I saw in a factory in China about 20 years ago was probably even more amazing.

Countries that have a long history of embroidery have amazing techniques.

Unfortunately, there are few successors in Japan and the craft is steadily declining.

③ Horizontal swing embroidery

The embroidery on Sukajan jackets basically uses horizontal embroidery.

It's something between machine embroidery and hand embroidery, and the craftsman decides the direction of the stitching based on his or her experience.

It's like turning a flat surface into a three-dimensional object by changing the direction of the swing.

The making of items with fur, such as tigers and hawks, depends on the skill of the craftsman.

This is an extra large patch made by swinging it sideways.

This is embroidery on what is commonly known as a polar bear jacket.

For SS21, we are also trying our hand at horizontal embroidery using phosphorescent thread.

The colors are cute, and all of them except for the black feature a rare horizontal embroidery that glows in the dark.

For 21AW I tried swinging it horizontally using transparent thread.

That's the part that looks white.

Unlike ordinary rayon or polyester threads, we were able to create a fairly three-dimensional shape.

Here are some vintage photos I own.

The old rough rayon yarn is still the best.

The last one is silk thread.

It's hard to find thread like this these days.

We actually show these documents to the factory and create samples.

In recent years, there are fewer vintage items in good condition and prices have risen, so I'm glad I bought it when it was cheap.

We are also trying new embroidery designs for our Spring/Summer 2022 project, so please come and take a look.

This post is getting long again, so I'll stop here.

See you later!

NORI