
Vol.3 Bellows
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This time I will introduce the sewing techniques I used for my most recent special order.
At SEVESKIG, we often use 1.4-1.6mm thick leather for our custom orders, so depending on the leather, movement may be restricted.
Sewing techniques used to alleviate restrictions include "accordion" and "in-box pleats."
This is a technique that is particularly popular among people with larger builds and those who wear racing pants.
The customer who placed the order this time also chose to order from SEVESKIG because ready-made riders jackets and leather pants were too small for him to wear.
Making accordion bellows is quite difficult, even for people who can sew, so it may be one of the techniques that you don't want to try.
Leather that is 1.4-1.6mm thick is too thick and will lose tension, so we usually use leather that is 1mm thick or less.
It is a hassle for tanners to order in increments of millimeters, so at SEVESKIG we filter the leather in increments of one fish.
First, the power net (a very stretchy spandex. If you choose the wrong material, it will not accordion-like) is stretched and set on a wooden frame.
Next, the roughly cut leather parts are prepared and placed on a power net set on a wooden frame, and stitched evenly.
Some leather stretches in one direction, so check the direction it stretches before stitching to get a nice finish.
I think that people with a basic body type will find skinny pants stressful unless they are made of stretch leather and have this accordion-like texture.
This time, the order was for a set of top and bottom, and we also added accordion-like details to the inner sleeve of the rider jacket.
I've never worn it in the sleeves of a rider's jacket before, but I think it would be very comfortable to wear.
Those who wear bellows pants will also wear knee pads by default.
SEVESKIG knee pads are made with 1cm of memory foam.
A friendly motorcycle shop owner sometimes asks me to make seats for his bike, and I use the same urethane for the seats.
This Ezo deer also has a similar three-dimensional feel.
Although I'm using it incorrectly, it's useful in the winter as it keeps my knees warm.
This is getting a bit long, so that's all for now.
Today we are having our first fun collaborative meeting in Nishi-Akashi City.
I hope to report on this on my blog and Instagram at a later date.
See you later!
NORI