Vol.37 大詰めです
今よりは徐々に日本列島梅雨明け宣言してきました。
案外憎き梅雨はあっという間に終了しましたね。
ここからはバイク灼熱地獄です。。
皆様熱中症にはお気をつけてくださいませ。
今年はオリンピック休みもあり、サンプル作成にかなり負荷がかかっています。。
パタンナーも本領発揮できていないので、無事上がるのかかなり心配。。
というわけで今回はいつも作っているGジャンに関連した事などを書いていこうと思います。
ここ最近のビンテージブームで値段が高騰しまくっているLEVI'Sですが、若い頃にかなり漁っていたので今よりは安価で買い揃えてます。
工場さんに出す糸指示書と言う設計図みたいなものがあるんですけど、通常ライダースとかであれば、革に合わせて『表地色合わせ、#20(糸番)、運針数、ポリエステルフィラメント』みたいな糸指示で済んでしまいます。
が、デニムは複雑すぎて展開図に書き込んでいかないといけません。
なんでデニムが複雑になるのか。
まず作りたい年代によって綿糸、ポリエステル糸で別れます。
強度を出したい場合はコアヤーン（ポリエステル糸に綿を巻きつけた糸）を使用したりもします。
場合によっては上糸をコア、下糸はポリみたいな組み合わせもあります。
これは加工後にどんな状態に仕上げたいか、10年履いたらどうなるかを経験と予測で組み合わせを決めていきます。
企業秘密なのでボカシ入れますが、イメージ的にはこんな感じです。
基本的に全ての糸を指示します。
普通の工場さんにこれを出しても絶対にやってくれないとは思いますw
この指示書を作り上げるのにビンテージのデニムが必要だったので、買い漁っていたのもあります。
買うなら着たり履けたりした方がいいので、全部自分サイズですが。
加工を入れる場合職人さんの腕だけでリアルな加工は生まれません。
どこまで求めるかですが、ビンテージを追求するならやはりビンテージを知り尽くさないと納得いく物は作れません。
と言うわけでちょうどこれから糸指示書を書くので、ビンテージの糸とか仕様とかの写真を載せてみます。
まずは1st（506XX）
もともとXXと言うのは頑丈な生地で当時の技術では最高に厚い生地って意味合いで付けられたそうです。
これはよく知られている事ですが、フラップの裏が6ozくらいの薄いデニムを使用しています。
厚みを軽減する為に薄くしているみたいです。
いつも疑問に思うんですけど、カマ底の巻きは行けるのになんで薄さにこだわったんでしょう。
ストレートミシンだと入らなかったんでしょうかね？
パッチポケットの口部分にはリベットを使用しています。
S506XXの名残でしょうね。
ちなみにこの頃は口を三つ折りで仕上げていますが、557XXは裁ち切りのままです。
シンチバックで年代がわかるのですが、実は頃リベットでも年代が判別できます。
こっちが前期の506XX
こっちは後期で使われている物。
違いわかりますかね？
前期の打刻は内側に寄って文字自体が小さいのですが、後期は打刻の文字が大きいんです。
文字が大きい物は507XXにも使われています。
シンチバックが切れている物とかはここを見れば年代が分かりますね。
ちなみに前期のシンチバックはこんな感じ。
二本針の物は前期になります。
消費者のことを考えてリスクヘッジの為に今では作れないんです。。
似た物はあるんですが、基本針は使えません。。
縫製仕様を見ましょう。
506XXと507XXの縫製仕様の大きな違いはここです。
506XXの方はカフス付けにラッパを使用していません。
どちらかと言うとシャツのカフス付けですね。
なのでチェーンstが走っていません。
対して507XXはラッパを使用しています。
ラッパを使用しているので、裏がチェーンになっています。
ラッパというのはミシンに取り付けるアタッチメントで、ざっくり言うと縫製時の時短器具って感じです。
気になる方はググってみてください。
これだけみても、テーラーから量産化への時代の流れが見えますね。
表の糸使用を見ても色々な糸番手を使用しているのが見て取れるのですが、面白いのは裏側です。
基本巻き縫いのチェーンで構成されています。
これは引っ張りに対しての強度出しのためだと思われます。
が、チェーンは一部が切れるとそこから一方方向に糸がほつれてしまいます。
昔はワークウエアとして使われていたので、耐久性よりも縫製効率を考えての簡易的措置だったのかなと。
全てを折りふせで縫製するよりもラッパを使った方が遥かに効率的で時短できますしね。
巻縫い部分を解くとわかるんですが、縫い代もかなりアバウトな感じで裁断されています。
これも何でかは定かで無いのですが、上糸と下糸の色が微妙に違うことがあるんです。
2枚袖ハギの裏部分なのですが、上と下で色が違うの分かりますか？
上はオレンジっぽい感じで、下はイエローです。
わざわざ色を変えるのは面倒だと思うんですが、結構こんな感じで色が変わっているのを目にします。
それは506XXに限ったわけではなく、557XXの時代まで続いています。
506XXが世に出たのが大体1930年代後半で557XXは60年代。
約30年間にわたって同じ感じで縫製されています。
。。。ちょっとだいぶ長くなりそうなので、507XX、557XXは次回に書きたいと思います。
作り手としては糸までしっかり指示して、時間かけて上がってくる物の方が愛着が湧きます。
70%以上自己満なのですが、随所まで語れる商品を作れる様に頑張ります。
話は変わるのですが、本日蝦夷熊の財布入荷しましたので、是非店頭に来て触ってみてください。
オンラインショップには出すか迷っています。。
それではまた。
NORI
21件のコメント
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