Vol.42 긴급 사태 선언이 끝났습니다.
계절의 변화의 비도 내리기 시작하고, 본격적으로 가을부터 겨울이 되려고 하는군요.
긴급 사태 선언도 전면 해제되고, 연말에 걸쳐 마시러 가는 횟수도 늘어갈 것 같은 생각이,,
기후가 좋기 때문에, 슬슬 단풍 투어링에서도 하고 싶다.
요전날 친구의 kenken에서 “야가타선에서 LIVE 해 봐 보러와”, 최근 여행에도 외식에도 갈 수 없었기 때문에, 아내와 참전해 왔습니다.
야가타선 타는 것도 처음이고, 에도마에의 튀김도 맛있었고, LIVE도 최고였고 정말로 좋은 밤이 되었습니다.
마침내 일상이 돌아왔다 ~라고 실감하고 있습니다.
레인보우 브리지 & 갈매기
가죽이 입을 수있는 기후가되어 왔기 때문에, 여기에 와서 주문도 증가하고 있습니다.
지난 주에 이어 지난주도 스페셜 오더 꿰매고 있었습니다.
이번은 드물게 보는 어려움이었을까. .
가죽 자체도 1.8mm ~ 2mm의 에조 곰 가죽으로, 디테일도 텐코 모리입니다.
D 포켓을 제대로 사용할 수 있는 사양으로 하기 위해서, 마치를 포함해 입체적으로 패스너를 붙이거나, 루이스의 BRONX 타입의 프런트 패스너이거나, 좌소매의 패스너 포켓이거나.
칼라의 반환 부분의 입체감으로부터 두께를 이해해 줄 수 있다고 생각합니다.
디테일도 힘들었습니다만, 기온이 내려와 가죽 자체가 딱딱해져 있던 것도 힘들었네요.
옷감과 달리 바느질을 쓰러뜨릴 때 다리미는 사용할 수 없기 때문에 망치를 사용합니다.
그 때 철마를 사용합니다만, 입체적 지나서 좀처럼 위치가 정해지지 않습니다.
이것은 꿰매고 있는 사람 밖에 모르는 고생일까 생각합니다. .
망치도 그렇습니다만, 봉제할 때에 재봉틀의 암을 가거나 오거나 하는, "휘둘러"도 힘들었습니다.
이번에는 가죽이 검은색이므로, 재봉틀 오일의 걱정이라든지는 없었습니다만, 예리한 부분에 은면이 긁혀 상처 받지 않게 하기도 한다.
칼라 선출만으로도 손목 부상 정도였습니다.
이만큼 고생해서 완성된 에조쿠마 라이더스는 정말로 멋진 마무리가 되었습니다.
빈티지 사슴 가죽 재킷 등에서 오래된 물건이라면 1930 년대 물건이 있군요.
그렇다면 괜찮아 100 년은 입을 것 같은 느낌입니다.
손자, 손자의 대까지 입고 받을 수 있으면, 이 에조쿠마 4마리와 나도 본망입니다.
물론 실의 열화, 안감의 열화 등이 있다고 생각하므로, 제가 현역을 그만둘 때까지는 수리하러 와 주세요.
이 후에 서서 계속 에조 사슴을 만들었습니다.
에조 곰 후 에조 사슴.
에조 사슴은 솔직하고 좋은 가죽이라고 생각했습니다.
껍질이 좋고 나쁘지 않고 꿰매기 쉬움이지만 w
그래도 이번에 꿰매은 가죽은 1.6~1.8mm는 있었습니다.
부드럽지만 개체에 따라 시보가 서서 정말 야생을 느끼는 가죽 마무리입니다.
스페셜 오더를 해 주시는 분은 80%가 된 L사이즈 이상의 오더입니다만, 이번 분은 S사이즈로 “자신의 몸에 완전하게 피트시키고 싶다”는 분이었습니다.
어려움은 그 정도였습니다.
마무리까지 2회 소매를 뒤집어야 합니다만, 내 팔이 들어가지 않는다. .
예상치 못했지만,
에조 사슴은 원래 부드럽고, 마음껏 당기면 상당히 성장하기도 합니다.
에조 곰으로 손가락 끝과 팔을 받고 있었기 때문에, 미묘한 힘 가감이 어려웠습니다.
솔직하다고 하면 솔직한 가죽입니다.
한 번 늘려 버리면 원래에는 돌아 가지 않기 때문에, 거기는 신중하게 가감해 당기면서 완성했습니다.
후신은 확실히 에조 사슴의 등을 사용하여 재단하고 있습니다.
가운데 주름처럼 보이는 것이 등검이라고 말해, 에조 사슴의 척추 부분의 색이 진해집니다.
일반적으로 메종 등에서는 등검을 싫어해서 사용하지 않는 브랜드가 많습니다만, SEVESKIG에서는 가능한 한 모두 사용해, 버리는 곳이 없도록 하고 있습니다.
주문해 주신 분의 사이즈감에 확실했던 것 같고, 가보로 해 준다고 말하고 있었습니다.
그렇게 옷을 낭비하지 않고 생명을 제대로 입어 주면 기쁩니다.
이전에 처음으로 에조쿠마의 곰장을 주문해 주신 분이 머리를 푸드로 하고 싶다고 말해, 재래점해 주셨습니다.
가두고 몇 번 걸어달라고 제일 좋은 포지션으로 조정해 갑니다.
사진을 찍게 해 주고 있습니다만, 리얼 “지코보”.
이 분은 홋카이도에 땅도 소유하고 있어, 홋카이도에 갈 때에 쓰고 비행기를 타는다고 말하고 있었습니다.
사냥회에 쏠 수 없는 일을 잘 부탁드립니다.
대체로 에조 곰을 살 때 손톱 첨부의 물건을 구입합니다만, 손톱으로 액세서리를 만들었으면 좋겠다고 했으므로, 바로 아래 제작중입니다.
마무리가 기대됩니다.
이번은 이 근처에서.
그럼 또.
NORI
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