Vol.38 계속 데님 일
여러가지 직전까지 문제뿐인 올림픽도 개막해, 도쿄는 약간 올림픽 분위기가 되어 왔습니다.
아틀리에가 국립 경기장에 가깝기 때문에, 블루 임펄스도 예쁘게 보였습니다.
그러나 교통 규제 상당히 힘들군요. .
평소 고속 사용하고 있는 차가 하계에 내려 오므로, 주요한 도로는 혼잡해 올림픽 스타디움을 보러 오는 지방 넘버의 분들의 거동이 이상하고, 시부야구, 미나토구, 치요다구 계대는 위험한 일이 되어 있었습니다. .
여러분 적어도 윙커는 내놓도록 합시다.
그렇기 때문에, 전회부터 계속 데님의 일등 써 갑니다.
설치해 이상한 부분은 없는 것처럼 보입니다만, 패치 포켓을 멈추고 있는 칸 멈춤 ST에 주목하면, 뒷면은 검은색의 #30면사를 사용하고 있습니다.
하지만 표는 오렌지 #20처럼 보입니다.
지난주도 썼습니다만, 이런 느낌으로 앞과 뒤로 사용하는 실이 대신하고 있습니다.
현대에서는 가공하는 것이 당연하고 있고, 가공 전제로 봉제사의 지시서도 씁니다.
많은 패커링을 넣고 싶은 장소는 운침 수를 줄이고 면실을 앞뒤로 사용합니다.
장소에 따라서는 뒤실을 가늘게 해, 표실을 굵게 하거나.
이것은 의도적으로 실시해 현대의 데님이 될 수 있는 일입니다만, 70년도 전의 데님으로 이런 사양이 되어 있는 것은 위화감이 있네요.
생각할 수 있다면, LEVI'S 이외의 물건도 같은 생산 라인에 걸고 있고, 밑실은 바꾸는 것이 귀찮아 느낌으로 검은 채로 된 것인가.
무언가의 책에서 읽었습니다만, 자사 공장뿐만 아니라 다수의 제휴 공장을 사용하고 있었다고 해서, 그 영향도 있을까요?
어쨌든 생산 효율만을 생각한 실 사양일까라고 생각됩니다.
사진으로 알 수 있을지 모르겠지만, 기본표에 나오는 장식 ST는 오렌지를 기조로 하고 있습니다.
다만, 뒤는 거의 옐로우입니다.
이것도 현대라고 당연히 잘 알려진 일입니다만, 요크 부분의 땅의 눈(천의 방향)이 반대가 되고 있습니다.
메인의 길은 정지의 눈입니다만, 요크는 반대.
운동 효율을 생각하면 바이어스로 취하는 것이 좋은 것은 아닌가? 라고 생각합니다.
가공 전제라면 정지의 눈으로 잡으면 표정이 푹 빠져 버리므로, 곳곳의 땅의 눈을 거꾸로 하거나 합니다.
어쩌면 뒤에 요크가 상당히 크므로, 역지의 눈으로 하고, 반죽용 척을 벌은 것이 아닐까.
거기에 따라 전 요크도 역지의 눈으로 했습니까.
직물용 척을 벌는다고 하는 점에서는, 전단 뒤의 세르비지 사용에도 그것을 봐 잡을 수 있습니다.
현대에서는 세르비지 굉장한 것처럼 되어 있습니다만, 이것은 천의 미미입니다.
힘 직기로 짜고 있는 천이므로, 미미까지 확실히 사용할 수 있습니다만, 통상 미미의 부분은 강도가 약하게 활탈할 가능성이 있으므로 사용되지 않습니다.
110cm 폭(좁은 폭)의 천에서도 미미의 부분을 튕긴 폭을 유효용척이라고 합니다.
그리고는 봉제 공정을 조금이라도 적게 한다고 말한 면에서도, 귀를 사용하는 것은 현명한 선택이라고 생각합니다.
보통이면 삼중 접기, 또는 잠금 시작 + 두 접기입니다.
귀를 사용하면 접는 것만으로 직물 시말이 가능하고, 스트레이트 재봉기로 끝나 버리므로 상당한 시간 짧아지네요.
ALL 절복의 셔츠라든지와 비교하면, 재봉틀&래퍼를 가지고 있으면 꽤 편한 봉제는 아닐까. .
소품만 만들고 있으면 도중 다리미라든지 들어가지 않습니다.
너무 말하면 공장 씨에게 화를 낼 것 같지만 w
557XX 사진도 조금만 올려 둡니다.
이것은 506XX, 507XX에도 공통되어 있습니다만, W스티치로 예각에 각도가 붙어 있는 장소에 “와타리”라고 하는 스티치가 달리고 있습니다.
LEVI'S의 아큐에이토스티치의 중심에서 볼 수있는 실 비행 같은 곳입니다.
이것도 코바 ST(3mm)+6mm~7mm를 1개씩 달리면 시간이 걸리므로, 2개 바늘용 재봉틀을 사용하고 있습니다.
날카로운 모서리 부분은 한 번 이송을 주기 때문에 안쪽에 와타리 ST가 나옵니다.
최근에는 나오지 않게 할 수있는 것 같습니다만, 데님을 꿰매 때는 와타리가있는 것이 분위기 좋네요.
보이는 방법으로 506XX, 507XX와 다른 부분은 탁 버튼이 카퍼색이 된 곳입니까?
왜 카퍼로 한 것인지는 수수께끼입니다만,
녹청 나오고 다른 사람에게 이염하고, 아직 철이 더 좋았던 것 같습니다.
고등학교 때 70505가 1만엔 이하로 살 수 있었지만, 카퍼색이 싫어서 사지 않았던 기억이 있습니다.
크게 변경된 것은 실루엣이지요.
557XX는 허리 모양을 내기 위해 몸길을 9 패널로 분할하고 있습니다.
50년대의 “난폭자”라든지 “이유 없는 반항” 등으로 데님+흰색 T가 패션화해, 거기로부터 매스화, 작업복으로부터 패션이 된 기념해야 할 일착이군요.
옛날은 싫었고 샤모 소매이지만, 기분적 지금은 아무런 위화감도 없고 입을 수 있습니다.
시대군요.
전회부터 계속 재킷만을 봐 왔습니다만, 이번 데님을 다룰 때는 팬츠의 일에 대해서도 써 보고 싶습니다.
그럼 또.
NORI
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