Vol.37 큰 포장입니다
지금보다는 서서히 일본 열도 장마 새벽 선언해 왔습니다.
의외 미워 장마는 순식간에 종료했군요.
여기에서 오토바이 작열 지옥입니다. .
여러분 열사병에 조심하십시오.
올해는 올림픽 휴가도 있어, 샘플 작성에 꽤 부하가 걸리고 있습니다. .
패탄너도 본령 발휘할 수 없기 때문에, 무사히 올라가는 꽤 걱정. .
그래서 이번에는 언제나 만들고 있는 G장과 관련된 일 등을 써 가려고 합니다.
여기 최근의 빈티지 붐으로 가격이 상승하고 있는 LEVI'S입니다만, 어렸을 때에 꽤 낚시하고 있었기 때문에 지금보다는 저렴하고 매입하고 있습니다.
공장씨에게 내는 실 지시서라고 하는 설계도 같은 것이 있습니다만, 통상 라이더스라든가라면, 가죽에 맞추어 「표지색 맞추기, #20(실번), 운침수, 폴리에스테르 필라멘트」같은 실 지시로 끝납니다.
하지만 데님은 너무 복잡해 전개도에 써 가야 합니다.
왜 데님이 복잡해지는 것인가.
먼저 만들고 싶은 연대에 따라 면사, 폴리 에스테르 실로 헤어집니다.
강도를 내고 싶은 경우는 코어 얀(폴리에스텔 실에 면을 감은 실)을 사용하기도 합니다.
경우에 따라서는 윗실을 코어, 밑실은 폴리 같은 조합도 있습니다.
이것은 가공 후에 어떤 상태로 완성하고 싶은지, 10년 신으면 어떻게 되는지를 경험과 예측으로 조합을 결정해 갑니다.
기업 비밀이므로 보카시 넣습니다만, 이미지적으로는 이런 느낌입니다.
기본적으로 모든 실을 지시합니다.
보통의 공장씨에게 이것을 내도 절대로 해주지 않는다고는 생각합니다w
이 지시서를 만들기 위해 빈티지 데님이 필요했기 때문에 사고 잡고 있었던 것도 있습니다.
사면 입고 신을 수있는 것이 좋기 때문에 전부 자신 사이즈입니다.
가공을 넣는 경우 장인의 팔만으로 리얼한 가공은 태어나지 않습니다.
어디까지 요구하는지입니다만, 빈티지를 추구한다면 역시 빈티지를 알지 않으면 납득 가는 것을 만들 수 없습니다.
그렇다고 해서 어딘가에서 실 지시서를 쓰므로, 빈티지의 실이나 사양이라든지의 사진을 실어 봅니다.
우선 1st(506XX)
원래 XX라고 하는 것은 튼튼한 천으로 당시의 기술로는 최고로 두꺼운 천이라고 의미로 붙였다고 합니다.
이것은 잘 알려진 것입니다만, 플랩의 뒤가 6oz 정도의 얇은 데님을 사용하고 있습니다.
두께를 줄이기 위해 얇게하고있는 것 같습니다.
언제나 의심스럽게 생각합니다만, 카마 바닥의 감기는 갈 수 있는데 왜 얇음을 고집했겠지요.
스트레이트 재봉틀이라고 들어 가지 않았습니까?
패치 포켓의 입 부분에는 리벳을 사용하고 있습니다.
S506XX의 잔잔하겠지요.
덧붙여서 요즘은 입을 세 접어서 완성하고 있습니다만, 557XX는 재단 잘 남습니다.
신치백으로 연대를 알 수 있습니다만, 실은 무렵 리벳에서도 연대를 판별할 수 있습니다.
이쪽이 전기의 506XX
이쪽은 후기로 사용되고 있는 것.
차이점을 알 수 있습니까?
전기의 타각은 안쪽에 들러 문자 자체가 작습니다만, 후기는 타각의 문자가 큰 것입니다.
문자가 큰 물건은 507XX에도 사용되고 있습니다.
신치백이 끊어져 있는 것이라면 여기를 보면 연대를 알 수 있네요.
덧붙여서 전기의 신치백은 이런 느낌.
이중침의 물건은 전기가 됩니다.
소비자를 생각해 리스크 헤지를 위해 지금은 만들 수 없습니다. .
비슷한 것은 있지만 기본 바늘은 사용할 수 없습니다. .
봉제 사양을 보자.
506XX와 507XX의 봉제 사양의 큰 차이는 여기입니다.
506XX 쪽은 커프스 부착에 래퍼를 사용하고 있지 않습니다.
어느 쪽인가 하면 셔츠의 커프스 붙이군요.
그래서 체인 st가 달리고 있지 않습니다.
대조적으로 507XX는 래퍼를 사용합니다. 
래퍼를 사용하고 있기 때문에, 뒷면이 체인되어 있습니다.
래퍼라고 하는 것은 재봉틀에 장착하는 어태치먼트로, 싹둑 말하면 봉제시의 때 단기구라고 느낌입니다.
신경이 쓰이는 분은 구구 해 봐 주세요.
이것만 봐도, 테일러로부터 양산화에의 시대의 흐름이 보이네요.
표의 실 사용을 봐도 다양한 실 번호를 사용하고 있는 것이 봐 잡을 수 있습니다만, 재미있는 것은 뒷면입니다.
기본 감기 봉제 체인으로 구성되어 있습니다.
이것은 인장에 대한 강도를 내기 때문이라고 생각됩니다.
하지만 체인은 일부가 끊어지면 거기에서 한쪽 방향으로 실이 풀려 버립니다.
옛날에는 워크웨어로서 사용되고 있었으므로, 내구성보다 봉제 효율을 생각해 간이적 조치였던 것일까라고.
모든 것을 접어서 봉제하는 것보다 래퍼를 사용하는 것이 훨씬 효율적이고 시간을 줄일 수 있습니다.
권봉 부분을 풀면 알 수 있습니다만, 봉제대도 꽤 아바웃한 느낌으로 재단되고 있습니다.
이것도 무엇인지는 확실하지 않습니다만, 윗실과 밑실의 색이 미묘하게 다른 것이 있습니다.
2장 소매 허리의 뒷부분입니다만, 위와 아래로 색이 다른 것 아십니까?
위는 오렌지 같은 느낌으로, 아래는 옐로우입니다.
일부러 색을 바꾸는 것은 귀찮다고 생각합니다만, 상당히 이런 느낌으로 색이 바뀌고 있는 것을 보입니다.
그것은 506XX에 국한되지 않으며 557XX 시대까지 계속됩니다.
506XX가 세상에 나온 것이 대체로 1930년대 후반에서 557XX는 60년대.
약 30년간에 걸쳐 같은 느낌으로 봉제되어 있습니다.
. . . 조금 길어질 것 같아서 507XX, 557XX는 다음에 쓰고 싶습니다.
제작자로서는 실까지 확실히 지시해, 시간에 걸쳐 올라오는 물건이 애착이 솟습니다.
70% 이상 자기만이지만, 곳곳까지 말할 수 있는 상품을 만들 수 있도록 노력하겠습니다.
이야기는 바뀝니다만, 오늘 에이쿠마의 지갑 입하했으므로, 꼭 매장에 와 만져 보세요.
온라인 상점에 내놓거나 망설이고 있습니다. .
그럼 또.
NORI
댓글 14개
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