Vol.37 进入最后冲刺
日本各地已经开始陆续宣布出梅了。
没想到，讨厌的梅雨季这么快就结束了呢。
接下来就是骑摩托车的酷热地狱了。。
请大家务必注意不要中暑。
今年还有奥运会假期，样品制作的压力相当大。。
版师也还没办法完全发挥实力，真的很担心能不能顺利完成。。
那么，这次想写写和我们一直在做的牛仔夹克有关的事情。
近来的古着热潮，让LEVI'S价格一路疯涨，不过年轻时我已经搜罗了不少，所以都是以比现在便宜的价格买齐的。
我们给工厂的资料里，有一种像设计图一样的用线指示书。通常做骑士夹克时，只要根据皮革写上“配合面料颜色、#20（线号）、针距、涤纶长丝线”这样的用线说明就够了。
但牛仔服太复杂，必须在展开图上一一标注。
为什么牛仔服会这么复杂呢？
首先，根据想重现的年代，要分清使用棉线还是涤纶线。
如果想提高强度，有时也会用包芯线（在涤纶芯线外包覆棉纤维的线）。
有时还会采用面线用包芯线、底线用涤纶线之类的组合。
这要根据希望加工后呈现什么效果、穿10年后会变成什么样，结合经验与预测来决定搭配。
因为是商业机密所以打了马赛克，大致就是这样的感觉。
基本上，所有缝线都要做出指示。
我想，要是把这个交给普通工厂，他们肯定不会接，哈哈。
为了完成这样的指示书，需要研究古董牛仔服，这也是我当时到处搜罗的原因之一。
不过既然要买，最好还是能自己穿，所以全都是我的尺码。
要做旧加工的话，单靠工匠的手艺，并不能做出真实的效果。
虽然也取决于追求到什么程度，但如果要追求古着感，果然还是得彻底了解古着，才能做出让自己满意的东西。
那么，我正好接下来要写用线指示书，就放一些古董牛仔服的缝线和工艺细节照片吧。
首先是1st（506XX）。
据说，“XX”原本是表示结实的面料，以及以当时的技术而言最厚实的面料。
这一点大家应该很熟悉，袋盖背面用的是大约6oz的薄牛仔布。
看来是为了减少厚度，才用了薄布。
不过我一直有个疑问，腋下的卷缝都能缝过去，为什么这里却这么坚持要薄呢？
难道是普通直线缝纫机缝不过去吗？
贴袋的袋口部分使用了铆钉。
应该是S506XX留下来的设计吧。
顺便说一下，这个时期袋口采用三折边处理，但557XX则是直接保留裁切边。
可以通过后腰调节带判断年代，其实这个时期也能从铆钉辨别年份。
这边是早期的506XX。
这边则是后期使用的铆钉。
看得出区别吗？
早期的刻印靠内，文字本身也比较小，而后期的刻印文字更大。
大字刻印的铆钉也用在507XX上。
如果后腰调节带被剪掉了，就可以看这里来判断年代。
顺便一提，早期的后腰调节扣是这样的。
双针扣的就是早期款。
考虑到消费者安全，现在为了规避风险，已经没办法做这种了。。
虽然有类似的款式，但基本上不能用针扣。。
再来看看缝制工艺。
506XX和507XX在缝制工艺上的主要区别就在这里。
506XX安装袖口时没有使用卷边器。
比较接近衬衫袖口的接法。
所以没有链式针迹。
相对地，507XX使用了卷边器。
因为用了卷边器，所以背面是链式针迹。
所谓卷边器，就是装在缝纫机上的附件，简单来说，算是一种缝制时节省时间的工具。
感兴趣的话，可以自己搜一下。
光看这些，就能看出从裁缝式制作走向量产的时代变化。
看正面的用线，就能发现使用了各种不同线号，不过有趣的是背面。
基本上都是以卷缝的链式针迹构成。
我想，这是为了提高抗拉强度。
不过链式针迹只要有一处断了，线就会从那里向一个方向不断脱开。
以前是作为工作服使用的，所以我想，这也许是比起耐久性，更考虑缝制效率的一种简便做法。
毕竟比起全部采用折伏缝，使用卷边器要高效得多，也省时得多。
把卷缝部分拆开就会发现，缝份的裁剪也相当随意。
还有一个原因不太确定的现象，就是面线和底线的颜色有时会略微不同。
这是两片袖拼接处的背面，能看出上下颜色不同吗？
上面有点偏橙色，下面则是黄色。
我觉得特地换颜色应该挺麻烦的，但经常能看到这样颜色不同的情况。
而且不只506XX如此，一直延续到了557XX的时代。
506XX大约在1930年代后期问世，557XX则是60年代。
大约30年间，都是以相同的方式缝制的。
。。。看来会写得相当长，507XX和557XX就留到下次吧。
作为制作者，连缝线都仔细指定、花时间做出来的东西，会让我更有感情。
虽然70%以上都是自我满足，不过我会努力做出每一个细节都能好好讲述的产品。
换个话题，今天虾夷熊皮钱包到货了，请一定来店里摸摸看。
我还在犹豫要不要放到网店上。。
那么，下次见。
NORI
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