Vol.30.2 日常裁剪的场景
因为上周没有更新博客，所以这是本周第二次更新。
22S/S的企划逐渐成形了，趁着梅雨季还没来，开始去拜访织布厂和针织厂，结果第一次在高速公路上被拦下了。。
休息日走北关东高速公路，可要小心。。
之后回到办公室，开始裁剪特别定制的衣服。
皮革裁剪大家可能偶尔会看到，不过毛皮裁剪应该不常见吧。
大家都知道，毛皮上带着毛，所以不能从毛的一面下刀。
这次裁剪的「熊夹克」，使用了在青森捕获的月轮熊，以及在北海道捕获的虾夷熊。
月轮熊和虾夷熊不同，整体是黑色的。
一边确认部位、避开毛量稀疏的地方，一边从背面裁剪。
不过在那之前，要先用银笔把纸样描上去。
裁普通皮革时，觉得这样太花时间，绝对不会这么做，但这里为了不把毛切断，会好好花时间处理。
描好后，用全新的刀片，只切开皮的部分。
新刀片非常锋利，不需要多用力就能裁开。
小心别让刀片碰到底下的切割垫，谨慎而迅速地操作。
同时也尽量做到不浪费材料。
裁剪后剩下的皮料叫作「落とし」，这些边角料不会丢掉，会留起来。
为了尽量把所有部分都用上。
接下来还要裁皮革，所以先用吸尘器把剪落的毛彻底吸干净。
之后就是难度较高的裁剪了。
普通皮革的话没有那么难，但我们的野生动物皮革，尤其熊皮，边缘部位是立体的。
为什么会呈现立体状态，说来话长，下次再讲。
一边看清部位，一边尽量不浪费皮革。
为了尽可能避免左右色差，要尽量用同一个体的皮裁出左右两边。
也希望左右的皮纹能对称，所以会花时间仔细挑选。
决定好从哪里取料后，裁剪就很快了。
裁过毛皮后，刀片会被油脂弄钝，所以把用坏的刀节一节节折掉，换新刀口来用。
这次的皮也做得很好，充分浸润了油脂。
好的全植物鞣皮革，切面会闪闪发亮。
光看这一点，就能一眼看出皮革好不好。
尤其是油脂充分的皮革，刀口可以毫无阻力地顺畅切进去。
全部大约有40个裁片，裁完一件衣服，大致要花2小时左右。
什么都不考虑的话，1小时左右就能结束，但考虑到哪些部位需要伸展、哪些部位不希望拉伸再下刀，时间就会变成两倍左右。
如果是充分拉平、拉伸到位的铬鞣牛皮，可能什么都不用考虑，30分钟左右就能裁完。
全植物鞣熊皮夹克的裁剪，就是这么难。
裁完后，我把裁片摆开了。
这也可能是大家不太常见的场景。
连我们自己都几乎不会这样排开来。
我会把视频上传到YouTube，请一定看看。
所以，这次是一篇聚焦裁剪的博客。
下次打算聊聊缝制。
那么，下次见。
NORI
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